Materials
and Methods:
The following items may or may not help people who are just starting out finding materials or have not yet purchased materials or are building their first cell. They are presented in no particular order. If you have a list of suppliers in your area please e-mail them to me and I’ll add them to this list. If you wish to document your own experiences and wish to add them to this web site e-mail them to me. I am especially looking to document all the successful conversions or partial conversions as seen below. Pictures of the cell, its location and its attachment to the engine would be helpful. If you don’t have access to a scanner I can scan the pictures for you. Documented failures as well as successful conversions will help everyone learn. I have tried to think of everything possible to document. If you think of anything further please e-mail me.
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Safety:
Do yourself a favor. Buy some protective shop glasses if you don’t have any, even if you already wear glasses. Wear them when grinding and especially when/if you use or mix the “go juice” mentioned in Alex’s book. The juice contains phosphoric acid.
Funnels,
Filters:
For just pouring water my first reaction to find funnels was the grocery store or department store. Instead of there I found the best funnels in the auto parts store. Prestone makes a small yellow funnel that is the maximum size OD (tapered section) you can put in the mouth of a 5 gallon glass bottle. Also the home brewing suppliers have larger funnels available with the widest mouths available I’ve seen anywhere.
For filtering, since the quantity to pour is much smaller, coffee filters and whatever size funnels are fine. If you have a lot of filtering to do there is an alternative to the smaller funnels/filters. In the restaurant industry they have special filter/funnel they use to filter french fry shortening. I have not tried them for water so I cannot say if they will be good or bad. They may be too porous but adding a coffee filter inside the more porous filter may take care of that. They are quite large. Restaurant supply stores should have them.
Glass
bottles:
For storage and transport of your water you will need glass bottles. It’s been a few years since the bottled water companies in our area of the US have used glass bottles. Everything is now 5 gallon plastic.
I searched the web and glass is still needed and used in the home brewing industry. They call the bottles “carboys” and use them for fermenting beer, mead, wine etc. They come in 5, 6 and 6.5-gallon sizes. All the bottles have the same size mouth. If you have read Alex’s book and seen his pictures he mentions that he has put in stoppers so that the water can breathe. At the home brewing shop, just ask for a bubbler, which is used to allow the beer to push out bubbles as the beer ferments but does not allow any air to reenter the bottle. The bubbler costs about $1-2US. I think this is what Alex is talking about. His picture is not that clear in my copy. If I’m wrong someone please correct me on this point.
The carboys go for about $15US for the 5 gallon up to around $19US for the 6.5 gallon. I stuck with the 5 gallon size as when its full of water its about 55 lbs or more. If you search on the web for “carboys” you will find places that will ship the bottles to you. The Home Brewery had stainless steel beer kegs with the tops cut off already also, though I did not test for magnetism. Also brewers will carry rubber stoppers (to close the bottle) for the carboys with and without holes. One with a hole would be good if you want to use the bubbler mentioned previously. The holes in the stoppers are the correct size for the bubblers. These carboys do not have taps on them as seen in Alex’s book.
Here in Riverside, California I made my purchases at “The Home Brewery”
909-779-9971
Web address is
Another place on the web is
http://www.alternativebeverage.com/equipment/fermenters.htm
Both of these sellers will ship UPS.
Watch the shipping costs versus the driving/gas needed to drive down and get the bottles, as the bottles are heavy.
Getting a new fresh bottle, there is an advantage of knowing there has not been junk in the container like pennies or gasoline. I have heard of these bottles being used for both so I would not buy one from a flea market or garage sale for that reason. The bottles I bought at “The Home Brewery” were made in Mexico. If you travel to the other side of the border you might check the price there.
Water:
Water was taken from Bay Tree Springs on State Highway 243 between Banning and Idyllwild, CA at about 5000 feet elevation, around mile marker 15 or 16. There are no buildings and its 120 miles roundtrip from Riverside. The springs are not on any map. Water is being transported and stored using glass milk bottles and 2 each 5-gallon water bottles (carboys). There are also lots of small shops, good restaurants and inns in Idyllwild if you are so inclined to make more of an adventure of it.
Water quality is very good at this spot. I have a close friend who has been seeing auras since she was a child and can tell good water from bad by its aura. Water from a spring or lively creek has a light blue shimmering aura. I believe this is the living water that’s needed. Water from a tap, at least in our area, or from a bottle has no aura at all. The water at Bay Tree Springs has a powerful aura. There is a lake nearby, not fed by the spring, which looks dead. The water is drinkable as is at this location. In fact the first time we found the spring there was one guy filling up about ten 5-gallon bottles to take with him. Our second trip up we took our 5-gallon plastic bottles to fill for our own drinking water supply.
Vinegar:
Vinegar was purchased from Stater Brothers Grocery Store. Balsamic vinegar was chosen because it is not thinned out to 5% with water of unknown origin. There were several brands of Balsamic vinegar on the shelf. This particular balsamic was chosen because it is 6% and is NOT thinned (diluted) with anything. Drawbacks to balsamic vinegar is that its more expensive and is has a color to it, making the bottom of the cell impossible to see. There are many recipes on the web to make your own vinegar from alcohol products. If one were to use white wine to make vinegar it seems to me the resulting vinegar would be clear though it would probably much stronger than the 5% found in most store varieties. This would give you more control over what’s going in the cell. The culture needed to make vinegar (called mother) is also available at some home brewing stores including “The Home Brewery” mentioned previously for around $5. Then all you need is some white wine, a wide mouth glass jar or stainless container and a warm dark place to keep it while it ferments. Recipes, instructions and hints are all over the web. The brewery stores will answer questions too.
Aluminum
tubing:
If you bought or built your top cone with a 1” outlet you may have found the 1” aluminum tubing hard to come by. The price I found, at $13.40 per foot plus shipping, seemed rather expensive. There are different grades of tubing. Some are easier to bend than others. Make sure you specify the more bendable type when shopping. If anyone finds a better price please let me know so I can add it to the list. In addition, if anyone is in another country or different area of this country with a list of any suppliers let me know and I’ll ad them to this website.
http://www.emjmetals.com/emjonline/index.asp
Price $13.40US/foot plus shipping
Ship by UPS
Contact: Owen
They have many outlets, so check the website for locations in the US and phone numbers.
Since the outlet and the aluminum tubing are both 1” OD you will have to flare the aluminum to fit over the SS outlet. If you have not bought or built a cone yet consider using a smaller diameter outlet. Automotive fuel line is available as large as 5/8” and easy to find as well as much less expensive. Again you would have to flare the tubing to fit over a 5/8” outlet but the smaller size would save a great deal in money and time securing the tubing. Nutech now has their press fit cones available with OD outlet sizes of 5/8” and 1”.
Charging
Cell:
With respect to a charging cell, the beer keg charging cell should be avoided and instead use a glass demo cell with more water capacity. Though the beer kegs are plentiful at a scrap yard the separator cones in the US are hard to come by and expensive. I did find them at Separators Inc. for $55US each per 10” cone.
The Phone number is 1-800-233-9022.
Beer kegs are available at scrap yards for around $US20.
Cathode
bolt:
I found it much easier to tighten cathode nuts, other than the one inside the 1” cylinder, if I grind or cut straight across the opposite end of the bolt. This way I can get more leverage with a screwdriver to hold the bolt in place as I tighten the nut on the outside of the outer canister.
Ebonite
Rods:
I talked to my local wholesale plastics supplier and they had never even heard of ebonite. I found one location in Alabama after a bit of searching. They did not have stock when I ordered but did get me the product within 3 weeks. The price was $3US per foot. They only have 1-foot rods. I bought 5 rods and had 2.5 leftover including a few mistakes. The short leftover piece I filed up to ½ inch up from one end the width that would fit between the cylinders to use for tapping in the cylinder separators to a uniform depth.
If you prefer acid resistant corks they have those available also. I don’t know the particulars as I went with the ebonite rods.
Web Site is:
http://www.macnanbio.com/electrical.htm
Canisters,
Cones and Mounting:
I live in Riverside, California, which is about 60 miles east of Los Angeles. The city I live in has a population of 250,000 with another 750,000 close by in other smaller cities. It would seem that living in such an urban area the materials and labor needed to build a cell would be relatively easy to obtain. Not! I bought the parts from Nutech instead. At the time I bought my parts from Nutech they were only selling cylinders and finished cones. I took the cone to a nearby machine shop and asked them for a price to make a canister with a hole from my 5 “ cylinder to fit my cone. They were talking around $500. I went to the restaurant supply store instead and got a 2 quart “Bain Marie” (sauce pan), non tapered (harder to find) and had a hole drilled in that instead. Its about 1/16” smaller than the 5” cylinder that Nutech sent me, but requires no welding and has a lip at the top. The Bain Marie costs $14. I bought a spare to play with. The Bain Maries are non-magnetic.
Heat-treating was another interesting inquiry. There are two companies within 10 miles that build heat-treating equipment but the nearest company that actually does it is in LA. To do business with them I have to take off work or ship the stuff, costing me even more money. I decided against that. There is no amount of residual magnetism in the cylinders or the cone. To attach the cone to the canister I have found some aluminum rings used to attach toilets to the floor. Two of them, one under the lip of the canister and the other over the top of the cone with a “wax seal” from the install a toilet kit, a few stainless screws, nuts and washers from True Value Hardware store and its set. The wax seal (made of rubber) holds the cone firmly in place on the rim of the canister giving the cone and canister metal-to-metal contact.
The mounting for the canister is from the garden section of the hardware store. Its what you usually enclose the valves for a sprinkler system underground in. I have mounted the cell on this for charging to make it easier to handle and less likely to be tipped over. Another one turned upside down for the final mounting in the car will keep unwanted hands off the cell. The bottom one will be mounted to the floor of the car with “L” brackets. Since they are plastic they will be easy to cut to accommodate the hump in the car. Cost of these enclosures is around $5.
Pictures will be posted soon.
Marking
your insulators:
To make sure that I get a set of insulators back into the same group each time I clean and reassemble the cell I marked all the ebonite pieces. I keep them in groups by top, bottom and between which tubes they reside in. That’s just my thing. You may not find it necessary.
Example:
Between tube 1 and 2 there is 1 slice on the spacers.
Between tube 2 and 3 there is 2 slices on the spacers.
Top of the cell groups get a crosswise slice, bottom doesn’t.
Go
Juice:
Recipe for “GO Juice” as mentioned in Alex’s book and taken directly from US patent office from…
On the web:
An excerpt:
An electrolyte concentrate solution was prepared for use in the invention, utilizing the following components:
______________________________________ Component Quantity ______________________________________ Distilled or de-ionized water 3,000 mls Phosphoric acid (food grade) 500 gm Sodium perborate 100 gm Acetanilide 10 gm ______________________________________
The mixture was agitated until all chemicals had dissolved.
The above solution was diluted with de-ionized distilled water to 3 gallons and
then poured into an electrolyte cell and charged at 150-200 amps for 24 hours.
The solution was then removed and filtered through diatomaceous earth, and
stored as required. Usually one ounce of this concentrate per liter of
distilled water produces electrolyte have a pH of 5 and is sufficient to
produce 1 amp at 12 volts, when used in the electrolysis unit of the present
invention.
-------------- end of excerpt
That is for a recipe of more than 3 gallons! For the cell to work you need about 2 tablespoons. Knock 2 zeros off everything you see above. The Acetanilide is not needed for the Joe Cell. I used water from the spring for dilution.
General Information on Sodium Perborate available at:
http://www.solvay.com/na/sii/resource.htm#Sodium_Perborate_Monohydrate
Can be bought online at
http://chemistrystore.com/sodium_perborate.htm
Phosphoric Acid in dry form is Phosphoric Acid Anhydrous
It’s not cheap. Food grade liquid is available but once again you are dealing with water of unknown origin, which is used to make the liquid. Food grade dry was impossible to find so I purchased non-food grade dry from
Gallade
Santa Ana, California
Phone: 714-546-9901
Part Number: 661204
Scott
Price: 500 grams is $60.00 plus shipping.
(Double-check the part number when you order)
Additional note: Gallade canceled my order. I have decided to go to liquid food grade. I have worked out the formula and the free sample that Monsanto is sending me is enough to make more “go juice” than I will ever need.
I will post the formula as soon as I can find it again.
Cars
and Aluminum Engines:
If you have not read Alex’s book the following will not make much sense.
OK, so I gave a great deal of thought to this part as I only own one car and it is totally unsuitable for conversion. I drive a 91 Chevrolet Suburban. It has psuedo fuel injection, fully cast iron motor and uses lots of computer chips. If I successfully changed it over to orgone instead of fuel I would have a lot of explaining to do when I got it smogged or they would not pass it because the engine had been modified. The State of California can be a pain when it comes to smog.
Since I wanted to increase the odds in my favor towards a successful conversion and I had to buy another car to work with anyways, I decided to go with a car with an all-aluminum engine.
Cars prior to 73, in California, don’t need to be smogged. “Sealed” engines started to hit the US market in 61 to 63 (California – 61) with partial PCV. Full PCV came in 68 or 69. Two American companies that I have found during that period made water-cooled aluminum engines.
In 61-63 GM made an all-aluminum V8 215 cubic engine. The design was later sold to Land Rover in 65. Many of the parts are still interchangeable between the older GMs and the newer Land Rovers. The Land Rover (imports) also had aluminum engines, though I have not found a history on when they started production. From what I have found it appears that large-scale (dealer) importation of Land Rovers did not start till 1987 so an old Rover is probably a rarity here in the US. They may have had their own aluminum engine before they bought the GM design. Check the links below for more detailed info.
This particular engine is still sought and highly prized for kit cars, as the engine is very light and powerful. Some of the 61-63 GM engines were coming out of the factory with 300hp.
American Motors (Rambler) made a 195.6 cubic inch straight 6 cylinder engine from 61 through 65. The books say 61-64 but my first car was a 65 and it had a 195.6. The AMCs did have a need to have the head tightened every so often and if not maintained did not last. I did remember that there was a lot of room under the hood on my ’65.
With either of these car/engine combinations there will be (in California) no smog requirements, no answers needed for the authorities and, if you shop around, the price will not be too high. However, if the car you find has been restored, the price may be quite high especially if the car is a convertible or a 2 door. I was lucky and found a 4 door which is not as collectible but which was in good condition. I drove it 100 miles to get it home with no problems. Price was $1500. The individual who owned it had repainted the exterior and added new carpet and upholstery.
In the early 70’s I believe the Chevrolet Vega was made with an aluminum engine, though I see very few on the road these days. It had a four-cylinder in-line engine.
If you care to deal with the authorities and answer questions about your engine modifications there are many auto manufacturers that have returned to aluminum blocks in an effort to reduce weight. Remember, however, you need a car with water cooling (radiator) and no fuel injection, and the cell is known to overload and/or burnout electronic components. One vehicle I was considering was the Honda Accord, which had an optional v6 after 91 with an all-aluminum engine. That’s the same engine Acura used since 87. I did not check the carburetion or other particulars on these models. They may be fuel injected.
Web sites for aluminum engines and smog:
http://njautosite.com/garage/encyclop/ency08b.html
http://bilbat.fp.execpc.com/aluminum.htm
http://www.geocities.com/dr_rambler/aluminum.html
Last revised 09/05/01